Ambassador Zdeněk Hák

He was born in 1980 in Most; he is a Czech mountaineer, ski mountaineer, sandstone climber, and mountain guide. Since 1983, he has lived in Rokytnice nad Jizerou, where he first encountered alpine skiing. As a member of the national junior team, he participated in junior championships across Europe. During that time, he fell in love with the Alps, and after ending his active skiing career, he started mountaineering and competitive ski mountaineering in 1997.

He studied at a hotel school in Turnov.

In 2008, he enrolled in a mountain guiding course and successfully passed the final exams two years later. His professional motto is to offer his clients extraordinary experiences on skis, in the mountains, and even on the towers of our sandstone cities.

His hobbies define his life. Besides climbing and ski mountaineering, he enjoys working on his house, in the garden, and spending time with his children.
In 2016, he skied down Noshaq, a seven-thousander, for which he received the "Climb of the Year" award. In 2017, together with Marek Holeček, he made a first ascent on Gasherbrum I, an eight-thousander. He has won two Piolets d'Or, in 2018 and 2020, for first ascents on Gasherbrum I and Chamlang.

His climbing idols are Míra "Lanč" Šmíd and Josef Rakoncaj. His favorite climbing areas are Adršpach, Český ráj, and the autumnal Jizera Mountains. If we were to describe his goal, it would be challenging ski mountaineering descents and fast climbs of classic alpine routes that appeal to him.

Regarding Direct Alpine, he says: "It's been 15 years since Dušan Stuchlík introduced me to Direct Alpine as a young, hopefully promising mountain guide candidate. I had almost no experience at the time, yet Radek Nováček included me in the team of testers and ambassadors for what was then a very ambitious brand. Over those long 15 years, I’ve tested most of their products and developed an emotional attachment to some of them, unable to part with them even after years of use in the most extreme conditions. Just as I have evolved in the mountains, so too have DA products in terms of material quality, fit, and functionality. The evolution has been significant, and the originals can't even compare with today's offerings. That’s why I’m glad I can continue contributing to the progress of this beloved brand from the Jizera Mountains."

Achievements:

• Five-time winner of the Czech Ski Mountaineering Cup and multiple medalist.
• 5th place at the Prachov 24-hour race.
• Holder of two Piolets d'Or for first ascents on Gasherbrum I and Chamlang.

Ascents:

• 2024: Muchu Chhish (7,453m – Bohemia Rhapsody – first ascent)
• 2023: Cholatse (6,440m – Just One Solution – first ascent)
• 2022: Chumbu (6,859m – The Last Flight of the Falcon – first ascent)
• 2021: Ama Dablam (6,812m – Lančmit Direckt – first ascent)
• 2021: Kangchung Shar (6,063m – Ádův Nebeský Traverz – first ascent)
• 2019: Chamlang (7,319m – UFO Line – first ascent)
• 2018: Hyazo Ri (6,186m – Lapse Reason – first ascent)
• 2017: Gasherbrum I (8,080m – first ascent)
• 2016: Noshaq (7,492m – second ski descent)

Additionally: 

Snow Patch – Sunshine Crack (CAN), Chief – Split Pillar (CAN), Cima Grande – West Face (IT), Dryland – Happy M10- (AT)

Domestic routes:

Adršpach – Bílá Růže IXa, Teplice – Hláska – Údolní Spárou, Zbiroh – Baťoh Chlupatej – IXa, Drábky – Bludiště – Čerstvý Čekatel IXa (first ascent), Jizera Mountains – Špičatá Věž – Západní Direktka VIc (first ascent).