Choosing the most suitable fabric and testing it thoroughly is one of the most important aspects of developing new products. Only the use of high-quality materials and well-designed cuts can guarantee 100% functional clothing for demanding sports and leisure activities.
Testing every new product is essential for us and takes place on two levels.
The first level involves laboratory testing, where the fabric undergoes specific tests depending on its intended use. These tests focus primarily on mechanical durability, breathability, vapor permeability, and water resistance.
The second level of testing is carried out in real-world conditions, often referred to as testing "on people." We work closely with elite athletes from our test team and collaborate long-term with professionals such as mountain guides and the Mountain Rescue Service. Their feedback helps us fine-tune every detail to ensure the final product is perfect in all aspects, from material and fit to smart details.
We collaborate closely with the Textile Faculty at the Technical University of Liberec during material testing. Their well-equipped laboratories house the latest measuring instruments. Below is a brief overview of the key machines our company uses for selected textiles.
Martindale – Abrasion and Pilling Resistance
This machine tests the durability of fabrics against abrasion and pilling. For pilling, we use the "face-to-face" method, where the material is rubbed against itself using standardized weights. In the case of abrasion, the tested fabric is rubbed against a standardized wool fabric with an abrasive structure, also with standardized weights.
The results are visually assessed, and for pilling, special reference standards known as "etalons" are used, which represent the degrees of pilling (categorized by type and fineness). The ratings range from 1 to 5, with 5 indicating that the material remained pill-free after testing. The basic pilling threshold according to standards is 5,000 rubs for woven fabrics and 2,000 rubs for knits. However, we push this limit to 15,000 rubs, equivalent to about three years of regular use.
Testing for pilling –“face to face“ Benchmark samples for evaluating pilling
Abrasion is assessed visually, and the test is concluded when the first yarn breaks, or a standard limit of 50,000 rubs is set. For highly durable materials such as Cordura, we set the threshold as high as 150,000 rubs. In addition to yarn, breakage, color change is also evaluated during the test. An example of products made from materials with high abrasion resistance includes pants designed for demanding outdoor conditions, such as Mountainer Tech, Cruise and Badile.
A Martindale device – used for testing abrasion A tested sample of material -abrasion at 50 000 revs.
Mace snag tester
This method simulates the snagging of a knitted fabric (or woven fabric) by a sharp object, represented by a standardized steel ball equipped with spikes. The number of snags per unit area is evaluated using predetermined reference standards (etalon). The test sample is stretched over a measuring cylinder, and the desired number of rotations is set (typically 600 rotations of the working cylinder). During the cylinder's rotation, the spiked ball impacts the fabric, with its spikes catching and pulling on the threads, causing snags. The snagging assessment is done visually by comparing the results to a nine-point reference scale.
The Mace Snag Tester Testing a sample of material
Shirley hydrostatic head tester – water penetration resistance
The device for measuring water column height determines the resistance of textiles to water penetration under pressure. A textile sample, clamped in a holder with a 10 cm diameter, is subjected to water from a reservoir head that applies continuously increasing pressure. The result is recorded when the first three drops of water penetrate the material. For outdoor use, a barrier textile should have a minimum resistance of 10,000 mm (for reference, kneeling in snow creates pressure equivalent to about 10,000 mm of water). The membranes we use in the Mountain Top series typically have ratings around 20,000 mm, ensuring maximum protection against water penetration. Examples of such products include Guide and Deamon jackets.
The Shirley hydrostatic head tester – water column test Testing a sample of material – water column
Water Resistance Testing Device for Taped Seams
Despite being waterproof, most jackets or pants are stitched, meaning the material is pierced by sewing needles. To ensure waterproofing at these points, the seams must be sealed with waterproof tape (WP tape). This device specifically measures the functionality of this seam-sealing process, ensuring that the taped seams maintain the same level of water resistance as the rest of the material.
Bundesmann – (Non-)Wettable DWR Finish Rain Simulation
This large device allows for the measurement of water repellence and absorption over time without applying hydrostatic pressure. Essentially, the device simulates rain, which impacts the tested material for a set duration (typically 30 minutes to 1 hour). The surface condition of the sample is assessed every five minutes using a visual evaluation based on a photo reference (with five grading levels). After the test, the material's absorption is further evaluated by weighing the sample before and after the test, determining the difference in weight, and, if applicable, measuring the amount of water that has passed through the sample into a collection vessel.
This method is primarily used for materials treated with DWR (Durable Water Repellent) without a membrane, particularly where high breathability and vapor permeability are required while maintaining good water resistance.
A Bundesmann device– for testing water repellence Testing a sample of material – water repellence (Bundesmann method)
Spray test – (Non-)Wettable DWR Finish Under Short-Term Water Exposure
This device allows us to test the functionality of the DWR (Durable Water Repellent) finish under short-term water exposure, unlike the Bundesmann method, which involves longer durations. In this test, the material sample is secured in a frame and placed at a 45° angle under a shower head (funnel). Then, 250 ml of water is poured into the funnel. The water resistance is evaluated using photo references (on a scale of 0-5, where 0 represents a fully soaked material with water penetration). This method is used for non-membrane products where water resistance is a desirable added value, but maximum water durability is not expected. In layman's terms, "it can handle a light rain for a short while." The spray test is also chosen when assessing the durability of the DWR finish after washing or for membrane materials where the membrane itself is the primary barrier against water, and the DWR finish is essential for its optimal performance. An example of a non-membrane material with DWR finish is the packable, lightweight, windproof Zero jacket.
Spray test device – testing repellence Key for assessing the Spray Test – repellence
Human skin simulation – Testing Vapor Permeability (Resting Conditions)
Vapor permeability is one of the most crucial properties of outdoor clothing. The device measures the resistance of a material to the penetration of water vapor. It uses a heated and humidified porous plate that simulates human skin producing sweat, essentially mimicking the evaporation of moisture from the skin and its subsequent movement through the fabric. The measurement is based on the relationship between evaporated moisture and the observed heat flow, with vapor permeability evaluated in g/m²/24h. The higher the vapor permeability value, the better the fabric's ability to let water vapor escape. However, practical functionality in terms of vapor permeability depends significantly on environmental conditions (temperature, humidity, airflow, etc.), which can result in considerable variations in measured values. This testing method is primarily used for membrane materials (e.g.,
Gelanots, Gelanots HB).
Human skin simulation – testing vapor permeability Human skin simulation – moistened porous board with material
Human comfort simulation - – Testing Vapor Permeability (Dynamic Conditions)
This test evaluates the breathability of a material during active movement. First, we attach several sensors to specific areas on a test subject. The subject is then asked to perform physical activity, such as cycling on a stationary bike. The modern interface displays the test results, showing how the fabric performs in terms of breathability over time and in relation to changing body temperature. This method provides a more accurate assessment of how the material responds to real-world conditions during active use.
Human comfort simulation - equipment
Human comfort simulation – dressed figure on exercise bike
Togmeter – measuring thermal isolation properties
This device measures the thermal insulation properties of materials. The higher the thermal resistance, the better the thermal insulation of the material. It is primarily used to assess the insulation values of fillings and materials. Some products, despite their high weight, may have low thermal resistance, and vice versa. Our goal is to select materials that achieve the highest possible thermal resistance with the lowest weight and loft ("thickness") during testing. Materials such as Climashield® APEX, Primaloft® Gold, Thindown® + Sorona®, and Polartec® Alpha® have passed this test. Products made from these materials are then extremely warm (considering their loft), lightweight, and highly compressible.
Togmeter – measuring heat insulation properties
Thermal Imaging - Measurement of Thermal Insulation Properties (Visual)
In this test, the thermal image of the monitored object—typically a finished jacket or pants—is immediately displayed on the device's screen. The greater the color difference between the insulated and non-insulated parts of the garment, the better the product insulates (with orange indicating thermal loss). This method is used, for example, to check products with varying insulation weights in different areas or to detect heat loss at seams. An example of a product where this test was used includes the Uniq jacket and Alpha vest.
Thermal imaging – visual measuring of heat escape
Thermal imaging – the orange area indicates heat loss, the dark blue area indicates high heat insulation.
SDL M021S – Wind Resistance Measurement
This test determines the degree to which a fabric resists the penetration of air flow from the outside into the garment. The lower the air permeability of the material, the better it resists the actual effect of wind. Excellent results are achieved, for example, with the fabric used in the
Zero jacket.
SDL M021S device – measuring wind resistance
Lab Test 2050 -Tensile Strength and Elongation Testing
This device measures the strength of a fabric and its resistance to tearing (and potentially also its elongation). A strip of the material is secured in the jaws of the tester and is subjected to "stretching" until it tears. The higher the tensile strength value recorded, the better the material resists mechanical damage. We often find that our materials have even higher strength than the manufacturer’s guaranteed specifications. This means that pants or jackets made from such materials can serve you well even in highly demanding conditions for many years.
Lab Test 2050 – Tearing Strength Measurement
Lab Test 2050 – material clamped in the jaws of the tearing tester
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